Banks Lake

by Phil Rowe
West of Spokane and southwest of Grand Coulee Dam is a long narrow lake in central Washington state. The surrounding country is a fascinating mix of yellow grass-covered hills and stark cliffs. It's all very imposing, especially set against that huge lake.

Southwest of Electric City, in the immediate vicinity of the Grand Coulee Dam and its associated tourist attractions, is a delightful campground. We stopped there for a couple of nights so that I could paddle my kayak and explore the northern end of the lake.

The campground site assigned to us was really nice, within a stone's throw of the water and a good launching area. And the place wasn't at all crowded in the post-Labor Day period, our favorite time to travel. Yet just a few miles down the highway was the state park campground, completely filled for some strange reason. We were quite pleased to stay where we were.

Paddling on Banks Lake is great fun. Along the northeastern shore are interesting places to explore. Small shallow coves, lined with tall grasses and cat tails, provide cover for waterfowl and fish. Lilies and other aquatic plants afford even more cover for marine life. It's a delightful place to slowly paddle and view that special eco-system. Drawing barely four inches of water, my sleek silent craft glides into narrow channels and over sandbars other boats could not traverse.

Out there in the main part of the lake roar a number of speedboats, resonating their raucous engine sounds against the cliffs to the west. Too bad those folks don't realize that the greatest attractions exist in the shallows and quieter parts. And I often wonder how much exercise power boaters get, if any. That's another reason why I prefer to paddle.

Early the next morning I again head out to explore the waters of Banks Lake, but this time northward toward the dam and then along the western shore. Because powerboats prefer the open central waters, I usually follow the shoreline, out of harm's way. A small kayak is easy for speeding boaters to miss and a collision is something I carefully avoid.

The waters a especially still that morning, almost glassy. A couple miles north of the campground is a marina which draws me closer, for the smell of hot coffee is like a magnet to me. I beach my little craft beside the dock and head for that brew and a chance to stretch my legs. Then, after suitably caffeine'd, I continue toward a pair of tiny islettes across the lake. It's not until I get between them that I realize they are but remains of a hilltop, now submerged in the man-made lake. Most of the exposed land has been washed away by winds and stormy waves since the dam was built.

I guess I'd have to say that my favorite part of the lake is the eastern shoreline. More wildlife exists there because of the protection afforded in the reeds and brush. It's much more interesting than the stark cliffs and jagged rocks elsewhere. All in all I'd put banks lake well up there in neat places to paddle and enjoy, or a just a great place to camp.