Paddling Virginia's Historic Waters

by Phil Rowe


My little white, sea kayak has been in waters from Alaska to the Carolinas. Now I wanted to paddle in historic Hampton Roads, on the north side of that James River estuary.

The last exit off I-64, heading south and before the Bridge-Tunnel to Norfolk, took me to downtown Hampton. I eventually found the public boat launch and put in my tiny kayak in amongst the luxurious yachts and commercial fishing boats tied up along numerous docks.

My tiny craft was dwarfed by the larger boats around me. But on that quiet Sunday morning there was little traffic and little danger of being run down. The weather was perfect and winds were calm. What a great day to be on the water.

Soon I was paddling about in Hampton harbor, a delightfully scenic and interesting place. Then I headed out into the open waters of Hampton Roads. That's where the Civil War iron-clads (Monitor and Merrimac) fought their inconclusive battle.

Across the bay is Norfolk's famous Navy Yard, an impressive place of big ships, submarines and dry docks. Huge cargo vessels plied in and out. I stayed out of their way and close to shore. My small craft can go where larger ones dare not venture.

Almost as much fun as exploring the shoreline, past the huge Veterans Hospital and over toward the once-elegant Chamberlain Hotel, was cruising about in the various harbor channels and alcoves lined with luxurious condominiums, shops and cafes. The city of Hampton has spent a great deal of money restoring the waterfront and creating a tourist area.