The Weirs that Was

By Phil Rowe


Train loads of summertime escapees from sweltering northeastern cities headed for the resort known as The Weirs, on the shore of New Hampshire's magnificent Lake Winnipesaukee. Families, retirees and young singles came to enjoy the refreshing coolness of the lake, the scenery of islands and mountains and the excitement of the waterfront boardwalk.

The boardwalk was small, compared to those of Atlantic City or Coney Island, but it did offer diversions for all age groups, and included the usual gift shops, restaurants and penny arcades. A bowling alley, a bingo parlor and various boat rides kept people busy. The more adventurous could even take a ride over the lake in a float plane.

Two key attractions were largely responsible for the popularity of the Weirs, the excursion vessel, Mount Washington, and Irwin's ballroom at the end of the boardwalk. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, both operated to capacity, delighting vacationers and bringing them back year after year.

The ballroom featured popular and famous dance bands, sometimes two different ones in the same week. Names like Guy Lombardo and Tony Pastor delighted dancers and others just listening to swing-era music. Light glistening from the turning mirrored ball showered those inside, while others moved to the outside deck to dance in the moonlight.

People dressed up. Ladies in cocktail dresses and men in suits, or even tuxedos, enhanced the festive, yet dignified, evenings on the boardwalk. The contrast between daytime appearances and that of the evening was remarkable. Swimsuits and casual attire were acceptable everywhere in the daytime, but not after dark.

Moonlight cruises of the Mount Washington occasionally featured other dance bands, catered dining and a party atmosphere. Crowds were large enough to support both the vessel and the boardwalk ballroom.

People stayed in hotels, lodges and cabin colonies - precursors to modern motels. Some rented or owned private lakefront cottages. From all walks of life and every economic strata, vacationers came to enjoy the lake, the beach and the various diversions.

The Weirs remained an important vacation destination for over 100 years, up to the first decades following WWII. Then people and tastes changed. But the biggest change came from the automobile. With the freedom of automobile travel, people no longer depended upon the railroad to bring them to one spot, the Weirs. They could now explore other places, newer places with more modern appeal and excitement. A more worldly populace was no longer satisfied with the simple attractions of the Weirs. And the enormous costs of maintaining big dance bands soon diminished their numbers.

Only the Mount Washington continued to draw tourists to the Weirs. People no longer considered the resort a vacation destination. It became merely a stop along the way, a brief diversion for a few hours. Coming up from Boston or New York to spend a week or two at the Weirs grew less popular. People wanted more and different vacation activities.

The resort slowly died. Once-profitable businesses became less so. Owners sold out, retired or moved away. Repairs were put off, and soon the boardwalk became unattractive and run down. The ballroom closed, later to become a video game arcade. Even the trains stopped running.

Today the Weirs is but a small vestige of its glory days. The lake and magnificent scenery remain. The swimming beach is still popular, and the Mount Washington continues to carry sightseers around the lake. But, the boardwalk is a far cry from what it used to be.

The lake region is still enormously popular. Thousands of summer residences line the shores. New resort hotels and lodges attract vacationers. Swimming, fishing and water sports excite enthusiasts in great numbers. Hundreds of small boats ply the sparkling waters, from leisurely cruising sailboats to noisy whining jet boats. The region is still a mecca for those escaping the summer heat of big cities. They just don't flock to the Weirs as much any more.